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Versys 650 2009 65,000km not starting

12K views 35 replies 13 participants last post by  onewizard 
#1 ·
I have tried many things to fix my versys which refuses to start. Well I have been able to start it once in 20 attempts maybe, but most of the time the battery lose its charge.

However, interestingly enough, once started, it runs pretty well. Go figure.

Here what it does



What I have attempted so far not in a particular order:
1-changed spark plugs,
2-changed oil and oil filter - cleaned air filter and air box,
3-checked valve clearances (twice),
4-checked spark plug coil resistances (ok - coils cracked),
5-checked crankshaft sensor signal (ok),
6-changed crankshaft sensor anyway (for a used one);
7-checked wiring (actually found a few exposed wires around the gas tank and under the seat, fixed);
8-changed ECU for a used one (I really thought it was the issue as it started right after,but problem reappeared)
9-changed one-way starter clutch for a newer one (it actually reduced the nasty noise)
10-Ran the diagnostic but did not find significant info.
11-Changed and charged the battery many times.

If you have a good idea what could be the issue please chime in!

(I have bought and old DR650 - which I like a lot - as I could not find the issue with the Versys, but honestly, the V is irreplaceable:grin2:)

Cheers!
Marc
 
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#7 ·
Burnedstar notes that it runs OK on the rare occasion it actually starts:

I have been able to start it once in 20 attempts maybe, but most of the time the battery lose its charge.

However, interestingly enough, once started, it runs pretty well. Go figure.
If the timing were off enough to prevent it from starting, I would think it would never start, or at least run really badly?

Question: When you run it until the battery dies, do you smell unburned gas at the exhaust pipe? That would suggest fuel is flowing, but no spark - an electrical problem.

If no fuel smell, than a fuel delivery problem (which *could* be computer/electrical)

Good luck!

Rob in KC
'14 Versys 650
 
#13 ·
Question: When you run it until the battery dies, do you smell unburned gas at the exhaust pipe? That would suggest fuel is flowing, but no spark - an electrical problem.

If no fuel smell, than a fuel delivery problem (which *could* be computer/electrical)
I have removed the spark plug coils with spark plug connected to its coil and grounded the SP housing then pushed start button. I tested both sides and no problem there - i could see the sparks. From memory (that was almost 2 months back now) I think there was a gas smell but not significant.
 
#8 ·
Fuel Pressure or Ignition

The ran once could prove my suggestion as wrong, but do you have #1 plug wire on #1 plug?
Others have suggested fuel, how old is this gas?
 
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#14 ·
The ran once could prove my suggestion as wrong, but do you have #1 plug wire on #1 plug?
Others have suggested fuel, how old is this gas?
Yes, I have checked that too and coils are on the the correct side. The gas was not older than a few days as I have been riding a few times and refueled a week before.
 
#9 ·
Have you checked your fuel system real good? Did not see a mention of that. What kind of fuel setup are you using in the video to try and start? Different ways of doing it on a fuel injected bike, just wondering. I agree with Invader on the starter, sounds horrible. Another question, with all the start attempts, have you thought about changing your start relay? Contacts gotta be in pretty bad shape by now. Anyway, Good Luck and report back.
 
#15 ·
The fuel line (not visible) was still connected to the gas tank (also not visible).

The starter is a good pointer, i'll check that. I have changed the start relay a year ago as it was giving random starter kick while riding at low speed. That was a memorable experience.
 
#12 ·
Its my vote for a fuel problem. Check the list of items the ECU doesn't give fault codes. It is a short list.

Since the bike appears apart, a quick check of the fuel pump is my recommendation. Just remove the pump, and put it in a small bucket of gas. Connect a piece of tubing to the output tube on the fuel pump and apply 12V to the red and black wires. If the flow is any less than a constant, strong stream of fuel, then you may have found the problem.

I just went through a pump failure. To make a long story short, I believe the pickup screen was clogged and that caused the motor to fail.

Hope you find the problem soon!
 
#22 ·
Chain tensioner reset?

First there is only one correct position to check timing, 2 over T, not 2/T. When you put things back together did you reset the cam chain tensioner? If you are at the correct timing mark the exhaust is out 1 tooth , that and your chain isn't tensioned properly.
 
#24 ·
...When you put things back together did you reset the cam chain tensioner? If you are at the correct timing mark the exhaust is out 1 tooth , that and your chain isn't tensioned properly.
That is a good question. I did not reset anything. I just removed the head cover, positioned the gear on the 2/T mark and set the timing mark on the engine side.

I did not do anything with the cam chain tensioner.

So a few questions, and excuse my ignorance as this is all new to me:

1-Did I follow the correct procedure to check the timing? Should I have done something with the chain tensioner?

2-In case the exhaust is 1 tooth off, how should I proceed to set it correctly? And how could that become like that:confused:?

3-In case the chain is not properly tensionned, how do I proceed to fix this?

Thx!
 
#30 ·
How sure are you about your valve clearance adjustments?
Yes. I checked again (for the third time :) ) before reassembling.

It is your starter clutch! You said you replaced with a newer one and it reduced it. You replaced a very bad one with a bad one. Get a new one!
I suspect fixing your starter and or starter clutch problem will likely remedy your starting problem.
It seems you had this right. I had ordered another (used) starter motor meanwhile checking for the timing and installed it. Bike is now starting. But the ugly wining noise is still there - so a new starter clutch is on the way.

Just by curiosity, I opened the original starter motor and cleaned the brush connectors on the rotor with a wire brush attached to a drill - the bike also now starts at every attempts. I have attached a picture to show before and after the clean up.
 

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#26 ·
Like Invader Said

I wasn't aware that you didn't loosen off the chain and adjust the shims. Just checking clearances won't cause a cam timing problem.
 
#27 ·
It is your starter clutch! You said you replaced with a newer one and it reduced it. You replaced a very bad one with a bad one. Get a new one! It is not timining or anything else. That wine is the starter. It is trying, but is not grabbing anything. In the video it doesn't turn over half of the time. Nothing contributes to that result, but lack of power, starter, starter clutch or a locked up engine. With what you know, that only leaves the starter clutch. Get a new starter clutch!

Your suppose to troubleshoot the easist things before you start to dig into the harder parts.
 
#29 · (Edited)
Rebel13 has got something there!

I don't think your timing is off (either). If when the bike starts, it runs fine, and you've never messed with the timing (removing cams, loosening/removing tensioner, etc), there's really no reason for the timing to be off. The timing marks are close enough as-is. If you were to push on the top of the timing chain (like the buffer that I suspect resides in the cam cover does), I think you will find the marks line up as they should. That said, your starter clutch sounds really bad. If it still sounds ANYTHING like that, it's still a problem. When you hear that high pitched whine, it's the clutch slipping when it's engagement can't overcome the engine compression, most likely due to a bad "one-way" bearing. You said you replaced your starter clutch with a "newer" one, and it sounds better. Does it still howl/stop spinning the engine? If the starter and clutch combo can't get your engine spinning fast enough, it will be hard to start (at best!) as you describe. I suspect fixing your starter and or starter clutch problem will likely remedy your starting problem.
 
#34 ·
Finally resolved. See attachment.

The torque limiter between starter motor and other lower starter gears was sliding (hence the ugly noise).

I welded it and replace everything back in place.

Bike starts like a charm now.
 

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#36 ·
For anyone reading this, welding is a really bad idea. That is a sprag clutch, you accidently hit the start switch while running, bye bye starter motor and possibly gear box.

 
#35 ·
Hello,

I had same problem with the same bad noise .
I had already changed then one-way starter clutch but : always same bad noise at startup !

... and I read your post : THANK YOU VERY MUCH

I changed the torque limiter and all is ok : this pulley is vicious ...

Thank you from France !

bye
 
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