I posted a question yesterday about a discrepancy between the alignment marks on the swingarm and true alignment as well as my inability to get my adjusters to work independently of each other. Here's a video done by a gentleman w/ a very similar markings mismatch, but seems to be able to adjust each side to get proper alignment. I watched several of his videos & enjoy them a lot (does a whole series on the Versys). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x0qwoTKLbd4
Would still appreciate any thoughts on how I can get my adjusters to work independently of each other. When I adjust one side a certain amount, the other side is moving the same distance???
Get your chain/wheel aligned with chain too slack. Tighten the axle bolt snug but loose enough to move axle with adjusters. Adjust the adjusters one flat at a time, same amount on each side, until you get the chain slack that you want.
That's exactly what I did - three times & it still moved both sides. Once things warm up - I'll try it again w/ the axle nut even tighter & see if that doesn't work. It's really noticeable w/ the alignment tool in place when you turn flats & nothing happens. Thanks for your response - I'll report back after going tighter yet.
I always kick the tire forward with the axle nut just snug enough, to positively set the axle forward on the adjusters. It won't go uphill in the swingarm slots on its own... Mine needs to be half the distance between two marks ahead on the right to be properly aligned.
Thanks, but that's what I did all (3) times. Actually, I loosened things up a lot, pulled down on the chain & it slid both sides forward before snugging things down prior to the adjustment. I don't think it would make any difference, but I am doing this w/ the bike on a swingarm stand & the tire off the ground. I know it likely makes the chain adjustment a little looser than spec, but can't imagine it would have an effect on the both sides moving at the same time deal.
Brand new left-over 2015 w/ one mile. Chain was tight as a drum from factory or dealer & why I adjusted it. I've had the Motion Pro alignment gauge for a while & thought I'd try it out. Nothing really to photograph.
Someone else had a similar problem because his rear brake caliper was out of place... That's why I'd like to see if I can spot something off with yours.
I also had a problem with chain alignment marks on the swing arm. My issue was that mis-alignment of the chain was affecting handling. I used a laser alignment tool to get proper alignment.
However, when I adjusted both sides, they remained where I put them. That is, I did not have the issue being discussed here.
But, this discussion, and my experience, indicates that you can't trust the alignment marks on the '15 V.
I have no suggestions on how to fix the issue being discussed here.
Bruce......Thanks for weighing in. I'm not sure of the model year in the video that I posted originally, but it appears marks being off close to one full mark isn't new. Granted, as the gentleman mentioned in the video, manufacturing tolerances when added up (plus & minus), things can & likely will be out of whack. But for both his & mine to be off essentially the same makes you wonder. Before buying the alignment tool, I usually checked my alignment by using a centerstand or a lift so I could rotate the wheel & see if the chain ran centered on the rear sprocket. That's something I'll do if it ever warms up again & I try getting things right & taking photos.
Make sure you push rear wheel forward against alignment bolts before checking alignment. Because of pre existing chain tension rear wheel will want to point to the right and chain will slack off, unless you do this. Chain tension should be 3.5cm, with wheel aligned, according to manual. Alignment adjustments will effect chain tension.
It is an iterative process, set tension, adjust alignment, recheck tension and adjust if necessary, repeat, each time you get closer.
The problem I'm running into, and I've been doing this for over 45 years, when I adjust the one side - the other side moves the same amount. Granted, up until the past few years, the adjusters have been cap screws on pulling tension rather than cap screws pushing rearward for tension, but I've never had both sides move the same amount at the same time - there's always been a difference that could be maintained. In any event, I appreciate your suggestions.
Oddly enough, I have checked my alignment several times using the string method, a borrowed chain alignment tool, and eyeball-the-chain-running methods and it seems the marks Kawasaki scribed are pretty much correct. Maybe my bike is one of the lucky ones, but it is definitely worth the comparison since I can now align to the marks and not get out the string.
Yes, once I'm satisfied the chain is aligned - I do all of my adjusting by turning the same number of flats on each side. Since the V adjuster pushes instead of pulls & is buried somewhat, I marked the flats for a reference since the head of the cap screw isn't exposed very much.
Last week after putting about 80 miles on the bike (it had ONE when I took delivery) and lots of WFO in 6th gear from about 3,500 to 6,000 RPM "pulls" to seat the rings, I decided to take another look at the chain situation before boogering up sprockets and/or chain. I don't know if operating the bike has anything to do w/ it since my original adjustment attempts were prior to being ridden, but I was able to achieve alignment. In addition, after getting things square, the discrepancy between the marking is now somewhere between 1/2 and 3/4 mark. So all is good now even though I don't know what changed other than use.
For anyone wondering WHY to worry about alignment - IF you remove your hands from the handle-bars and the bike wants to turn - it's PROBABLY mis-aligned. (I am NOT suggesting you ride hands-free...!)
I adjusted my chain on my '15 Versys 650 for the first time today. I checked the marks and both sides were adjusted just shy of the third mark from the front. I checked the alignment with my Motion Pro alignment tool and the chain alignment was spot on.
I am really pleased with the Kawasaki's build quality so far.
I adjusted my chain on my '15 Versys 650 for the first time today. I checked the marks and both sides were adjusted just shy of the third mark from the front. I checked the alignment with my Motion Pro alignment tool and the chain alignment was spot on....
This is an old thread, but thought it better than starting a new one for a simple question. Are you satisfied with the Motion Pro tool (clamps to sprocket and has a rod pointed forward) or did you pay the price and get a tool with a laser in it??? Any brand name suggestions are appreciated. Thanks, Chuck
I have been happy with my Motion Pro but as I've noted on another thread, it appears my alignment marks on the swingarm are correct. There is a little less parallax error using the Motion Pro and there would be even less with a laser, but the Motion Pro is probably good enough.
When you think about it there are several pieces that are being aligned. On a new bike with factory set tolerances aligning the chain and sprockets is probably more than sufficient. On an older bike, especially one with a few rubber-up excursions, there may be compromises to be made. Aligning the chain drive may not result in the wheels tracking in the same line. It seems like some error in the alignment marks on the swingarm could be due to twisting/tweaking of the swingarm or frame.
I have had small battles with the same issue, but doesn't sound to be anything like you have had. Motion pro has a video that shows how to use their chain alignment tool.
If you watch to the end he shows the trick about a hammer handle/screwdriver in the chain to help move the tire forward onto the adjusters (as others have mentioned, but gives a good visual)
It doesn't matter if you are using that tool, this method can be used.
Maybe try this as you are making adjustments.
Maybe try with the axle nut really loose. What the heck, sounds like you have tried everything else..........
Probably stupid question, but I need to ask.
I didn't see anywhere answer on this:
I see that marks on motorbike are not correct for chain alignment, and If i don't have any tool for checking chain alignment.
Can I use this method: I just adjust chain until rear sprocket are in middle of chain, than you rotate maybe 20 time rear tire and if sprocket are again in middle of chain, than chain alingment are 100% correct? So rear sprocket will not touch inner plate.
Is this realiable method?
I think that is best if rear sprocket are in middle of chain. (like on picture)
I hope that you understand what I wish to tell.
Probably stupid question, but I need to ask.
I didn't see anywhere answer on this:
I see that marks on motorbike are not correct for chain alignment, and If i don't have any tool for checking chain alignment.
Can I use this method: I just adjust chain until rear sprocket are in middle of chain, than you rotate maybe 20 time rear tire and if sprocket are again in middle of chain, than chain alingment are 100% correct? So rear sprocket will not touch inner plate.
Is this realiable method?
I think that is best if rear sprocket are in middle of chain. (like on picture)
I hope that you understand what I wish to tell.
THEN when I'm 'finished' - I put a screwdriver between the chain and sprocket, just in front of the bottom of the sprocket, then turn the wheel CCW to get ALL the 'slack' out of the chain, and torque the wheel-nut while holding the chain tight.
The other-side bolt won't "shimmy" if you do that!
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