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Chain & Sprocket change with new gearing.

2K views 2 replies 3 participants last post by  Gigitt 
#1 ·
Hey Chaps and Chapesses!

I just realised that I hadn't shared this little maintenance mini-series on here yet and I think some of you might at the very least find it quite entertaining. Think of something that could go horribly wrong... yeah, that! Oh and I ended up with gearing different from standard, which is always interesting to talk about :wink2:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UcUA_Y4fXC4

As ever, comments, likes, dislikes and ridicule are all welcomed!
 
#3 · (Edited)
Hey Andy.

Reason you broke the adjustment bolt was that inside the swing arm the bolt was rusty from water etc.

under the swing arm in front of the weld for the rear adjuster arm part, there is a drain hole... that would be blocked and all the road crud is inside and rusting the hidden part of the bolt.

As you cannot see the rust, you were not to know.. but as you were trying to unscrew all that rusty threads were binding up and making it harder for you. Broken bolt was inevertable.
best to first run the bolt in as test for free threads then as you take out you will know what binding feels like - you should have put copper slip in the threads when you put them back... Stainless Steel and aluminium stick due to galvanic corrosion.

Also when taking the rear wheel off... stick something under the wheel to take the weight before you pull the axel out... that way when putting the wheel back on it is already at the correct height - makes it sooo much easier as you don't need to lift it.

If you are in a rush... stick you foot behind the wheel and roll it back onto your foot to raise it quickly - thongs/flip flops/bare feet optional :p
 
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