- at 4,500 rpms I could hear a rattle/buzz from the right hand guard; trying to figure out where and why this is happening
- during my deceleration after opening it up for a short burst I would hear this “clicking” from below, it’s so hard to describe but almost like keys or something
- from idle to about 4k rpms the bike sounds like a scooter, it’s so quiet; not a bad thing just humored me a bit since I’m coming from a HD Forty-Eight with Screamin’ Eagle pipes
- definitely need a lowering link (ordered this evening from Motowerk)
- I now know what the “ball slam” is with this seat; yeah, may need to do something about that in the future
- wow, I really like this bike
One picture during the ride and another with the bags off this afternoon. I really, REALLY, like the titanium color. Well done Kawasaki.
I can’t wait to get the correct side case top covers and trim pieces. On my bike they are black, they should be titanium as seen on Kawi’s website.
All normal except the ball slam. Try engaging your legs more when riding. This isn't a cruiser or a touring bike. Squeeze the tank with your thighs and sit your upper body slightly leaned forward like the seat intends for you to do. Now you are ready to control the bike instead of just being along for the ride.
I must be doing something wrong. My twins just clang off the tank with a bell-like ringing sound... I did notice some new tank dents as a result though...
I did some "surfing" on line and the cheapest I could find was $260 US plus $56 US shipping to Canada ....anybody else know of a cheaper dealer / price.
Glad you like it!! I had the same buzz during my first 600 miles during break in. Not too sure why. I did take of my guards and put on some oxford heated grips, and since putting them back on they have not buzzed. I do notice the bike is buzzy around 5500 rpm's but I think it is just the bike. Just like how every set of car tires usually has a slight hum for a set 1-2 mph somewhere in its range.
This is a controversial break-in, but I've used it on my last four bikes, with *very* good short and long term results (plus, if your ride from the dealer is > 40 miles, you're done w/ the break in by the time you get home). If you put your bike on a dyno right after buying it, that'll basically break it in using this method as well. Read the entire article...
For those that say "stick to manufacturer's procedure," that's basically CYA for them. Want proof, take a look at their "recommended shift points." That's also CYA... but NO ONE uses those shift points.
As for the seat, I've used Sargents on my last few bikes. Gets rid of ball slam, they're great for long rides, and it's just a well made seat.
Btw, great color... If that was available when I bought my 2015, I'd be riding a Titanium bike...
I changed my oil at 200 miles. Yeah, a bit later than I would have liked but I was enjoying the Versys too much to stop.
I will add my "method" for engine break in was some WOT runs up to about 8500 rpms then rolled the throttle off (hence, the ball slam). This was the first 50 miles. Did this in 2nd and 3rd gear. Saw 91 mph at one point, not sure if I "did the ton".
Mine (2015) had 684 miles on it when I got it and it was already lowered. My shock knob is in the same spot as yours. I don't know where it was originally. It is difficult to get ahold of without getting off the bike.
I'm guessing that the original owner did a "factory" break in properly. Too late now if not.
I utilized a "regular" motorcycle lift when lowering the front forks.
And was I glad I did...
I had the front drop on me. Lucky for me I had the lift in place to (1) minimize the drop and (2) allow me to raise the bike to correct the challenge.
One tip I can give to newbies like me is that when lowering the front, you only need to push up the black part of the suspension assembly. I was trying to raise the whole thing. That is what caused my drop.
Besides the challenge of dropping the front - not to mention the relocation of the shock adjuster - the hardest part for me was cutting the side stand.
Yeah, going to need to repaint with a color that better matches the OEM side stand black.
And yes, checked the chain. No need to adjust. Just over 1" of slack after installing the lowering kit.
Overall, a good investment. I was originally on my tippy toes; now I'm on the balls of my feet. Not as much as I had hoped but still better than what it was before. I feel more comfortable now for my wife to jump up on the back and go riding with me.
That is somewhat surprising. When I installed by lowering link a couple of years ago, I had to re-adjust my chain quite a bit.
This makes sense, because the angle of the swing arm was changed to much closer to horizontal. This took up all the slack in the chain, and I had to re-adjust. :nerd:
Just had the 600 mile service. Interesting that after the lowering link was installed by me the chain was too loose. Install was about the 300 mile mark. I was getting a nasty rattle sound by the front sprocket during decel. All is good now. Dealership adjusted the chain. And as previously posted, I really like this bike!
Nothing that I noticed. Granted I only had it in stock configuration for 300 miles. I'm still getting used to the bike and how it handles but no complaints since the install of the kit.
I got caught by surprise when the shock I loosened shot right up and the bike took a nose dive all the way down on the remaining shock. Left me wondering how to fix this mess for a couple minutes. What I ended up doing is use a nylon strap tie down tied to the top bracket joining the shocks and a truss in the ceiling of my garage and then lift the front end of the bike by ratcheting it until the front wheel was hovering above ground a couple inches. Worked out pretty well actually.
Btw, I dropped my front end according to speedy's recommended 1.25" (so total 1.75" showing out of the top bracket) and the ribbed portion of the shock goes all the way to the triple clamp and frankly I cannot tell how much of the ribbed portion is inside the triple clamp. Anyone feel like taking a measuring tape and tell me how much of the front shock on a third gen is ribbed? Would spare me from taking the thing apart just to make sure I don't have the tapered portion of the shock inside the clamp.
Btw, I dropped my front end according to speedy's recommended 1.25" (so total 1.75" showing out of the top bracket) and the ribbed portion of the shock goes all the way to the triple clamp and frankly I cannot tell how much of the ribbed portion is inside the triple clamp. Anyone feel like taking a measuring tape and tell me how much of the front shock on a third gen is ribbed? Would spare me from taking the thing apart just to make sure I don't have the tapered portion of the shock inside the clamp.
I actually contacted Speedy about this, the fact the lower clamp would be beyond the smooth part in order to obtain the 1.75" drop. He said it would be fine to have it on the ribbed part but that it wasn't an issue if I left mine they way I had them (in my pix above).
I should clarify, Speedy said it would be okay to have it partially on the ribbed part. I don't anyone thinking it's okay to drop it so it is completely off the smooth part.
Just got my '17 versys today and rode it pretty hard for 60 miles. I want to follow motorman's instructions but, I'm skeptical of putting 10w - 40 in the bike.. can anyone give me some reassurance?
Dealership explicitly said not to put car motor oil in the bike.
THX, I will have a look around ... its the low seat that I want.
EDIT ...... Well, I'm down to $175 plus shipping
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