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need new chain suggestion

7K views 33 replies 17 participants last post by  tenover 
#1 ·
Time to replace my chain and sprokets, no idea what kind to get or where the best deals are. Any suggestions?
 
#2 ·
I just put this kit on and have been impressed so far: http://sprocketcenter.com/index.php...ring-chain-kawasaki-kle-650-versys-07-12.html

It came recommended to me by user "twowheels" who appears to have a lot of experience. I selected the RK Chain since I had read some negative reviews on DID stuff on other forums. I'm sure there are plenty of good chains out there but there ya go. Good price, good components, good shipping speed (for being free).
 
#8 ·
I do not believe that you need an impact wrench, although it can make removing the front sprocket easier. You do need stands in order to change the chain - at least that is my experience.

If you do this more than once, then I am sure that the stands and most likely an impact wrench will pay for itself. Then again, that may not make sense for some people who do not have the capital or storage capacity for such things.

By the way, I just used the set that sprocketcenter.com recommended for the Versys (other than I have switched to a 43-tooth rear) which included an alloy rear. About 4000 miles later and things are still working fine.

Good luck!
 
#10 ·
It depends. You would need a wrench that can get the front sprocket off, which means that you need a breaker bar with the appropriate size socket (if I remember 1 1/16" six-sided to be best) and perhaps a bit of pipe to provide a bit more torque. You would also need to deal with the rear as well, so a socket set might be required. If you go with a clip-type link, then all you need is one of these http://www.harborfreight.com/heavy-duty-chain-breaker-66488.html

Some people do not trust clip-type links (and to be honest I have chosen to use riveted links), but they do seem to work pretty well. If you need to rivet in a new link, then you would need a more expensive tool. I could search for such a thing, but so can you. I remember them to cost upwards of $100.

In the end, the investment is not too great (but I understand that what is too great to some is not too great to others). Then again, people who have the least capital can use knowledge to help themselves in the future. Once you have the tools and have done the job once, the next time (and all future times) it is as cheap as it can be.
 
#12 ·
Bit of a tip, even if you have a impact wrench and a 6 point socket its can still be hard to get the front sprocket nut off. I took my 6 point socket into local bike shop and with there impact wrench we still could not shift it so i stood on rear brake and young mechanic used the longest breaker even used down under and after 15 min we finally heard that beautiful crack as nut gave up the fight and young guy fell backwards on his butt. I wanted the shop to take it off for that very reason if anything went wrong then its up to them to fix it. I do not believe i would have same issues now as it was probably put on to tight from factory.
 
#13 ·
Redline's electric impact wrench did the job on his (now sold) Versys as well as mine, but even that torque monster of a tool* had to work at it.



* (the impact wrench, not Bob!)
 
#15 · (Edited)
Ratchet socket set with pipe to go over handle to give you more leverage or an impact gun. I have an el-cheapo $50 one. Makes nice work of putting on winter tires too. If you first flatten the lock washer less work in removing sprocket bolt.

Also chain tool is required to if you want to rivit the chain. Chain clips don't require a tool but have been known to come off on rare occasions.

 
#17 ·
No need to replace the lock washer. Just use a large flat head screw driver and hammer to bend it flat to allow loosening of the bolt and then bend it back.

If you can fit the correct size socket on the impact gun then yes it will do the trick. Normally they have a 1/2 square adapter.
 
#19 ·
Be careful about using a standard socket on a impact driver. I have split one or two. Best to get a impact socket there are much heavier duty.

I have a Tusk brand chain tool set that I paid about $40.00 for, same thing as the $100.00+ kits I have seen. It breaks the chain and rivets the new one together with ease. All I do to cheat id use my Drimal to grind the head down on the old rivets to make it easier to push them out. OR if you are in a hurry and have a great big set of bolt cutters they will make fast work of any chain! here's a link to it

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/43/-/171/756/-/25847/Tusk-Chain-Riveting-Tool
 
#20 ·
I purchased the kit from the link post 2.

It came fast and fit perfect. I used the snap master link with stock gearing.

My front sprocket was worn on the inside and not at all on the out side. ,I will get a picture.

Good kit I used a torque wrench on everything.

I blasted the front sprocket off with a pneumatic impact. No problem. I put it back on 90 foot lbs then bent a different spot of the lock washer.
Bike in gear was not enough to torque the sprocket on, I needed a helper to step on the rear brake.

Sprocket nuts 44 ft lbs

Rear Axle 80 ft lbs.

Speedo pick up 87 INCH pounds.

I also did the valve adjust and throttle sync.

Smooth, sweet and quiet.

David
 
#21 · (Edited)
There are many chains out in the market that can make things confusing to those who don't know what they need.
But there is no such thing as a great cheap one.

The biggest differences in quality is the sealing rubber ring that keeps the dirt out and most importantly the lubricant in.
My advice is get a good brand name DiD RK etc O ring or better and look after it!!

Most riders don't keep their chains lubricated enough and a dry chain will ruin the sealing rings and turn a top line chain into an average performing chain in a very short period of time.
Chain oilers are brilliant and will extend the chain life beyond your wildest dreams but they require careful installing and setup so you don't oil up the rear tyre too.

I forgot to mention that if installing one yourself you'll need a chain breaker that will also press the cover plate on the link. Plus an angle grinder to cut excess links off the new one.

When pressing the plate on the new chain don't over do it.. just enough to get the circlip on which needs to go on with the closed end facing forward rotation.

Yes big time proper adjustment is a factor to wear but when your doing that a bit the old chain is heading for the bin with the sprockets too. They all wear together and you will stuff a new chain on old sprockets quickly. You should replace them all together
 

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#22 ·
There are many chains out in the market that can make things confusing to those who don't know what they need.
But there is no such thing as a great cheap one.

The biggest differences in quality is the sealing rubber ring that keeps the dirt out and most importantly the lubricant in.
My advice is get a good brand name DiD RK etc O ring or better and look after it!
+1 :goodidea:

Also, there is also another side to it--adjustment intervals. I put a top-of-the-line gold RK chain on my V (I forgot the exact model, but it was the best they (RK) offered..."X-ring" or something like that, I think it was like $110 or $120) at 25,000 miles. I am closing in on 12,000 miles on the chain and have had to adjust it exactly ONCE! It went 7,000 miles before it needed any adjustment, and it's been 5,000 since that time and the chain is still fine. Other than having to lube it (and clean lube off rear rim) that's getting pretty close to a shaft drive in my book! :thumb:

Cheapo chains = half (or less) service life, and need to be adjusted 2X-5X more often :thumbdown: :forgetit:
 
#33 ·
Thanks. About to pull the trigger...Just thought I'd make sure I'm getting the right parts. I used the link posted in the second or third post on this thread(thanks!)....



SELECT FRONT SPROCKET SIZE
15T - Stock

SELECT REAR SPROCKET SIZE
46T - Stock

SELECT CHAIN MODEL
RK 520 GXW series Heavy Duty X'ring - NATURAL - (1000c ...
SELECT CHAIN MODEL
 
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