Should I buy a Versys/ Comparison/ FJ/VStrom - Page 3 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
General Kawasaki Versys Discussions For discussions on anything and everything related to the Kawasaki Versys.

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post #41 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 06:16 PM
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I do see a great many of these "Adventure Tourers" and "Sport Tourers" that are at BEST marginal on electrical power.

17 AMPS sounds fine until you are trying to run heated grips, jacket and pants plus extra lights and a GPS AND power the basic functions of the bike itself. I almost ran out of power on my KLR that way. I was left with no real choice but to ditch the pants and lights AND change out the bulbs I could for LEDs to free up as much as I could. At 5000RPM I'd probably be safe BUT for the back roads and off road I'd be dead in the water sooner or later.

It's one thing for a guy to run low on a over grown DS the he's pushing to the limit. BUT to build a 1000cc bike or even a 650 being sold as a touring bike without the juice to power these things is shortsighted if you ask me.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #42 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 06:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottyNeal View Post
Saddlebag,

I don't understand.

Does the V1K have a smaller alternator than the 650 V?

I run heated jacket and gloves, Clearwater front running lights, GPS, extra side and rear lights, a modulator on the front light, and have plenty of spare capacity.
Based on the info I found digging around here and elsewhere, they are the same and rated at ~340 W max @ ~5k rpm. The bike itself draws 218 W not including amperage to charge the battery (and when it doesn't need to run a cooling fan). For the sake of argument, let's say the battery draws another 22W.

This leaves 100 W for add-ons. From the chart given, the Gerbing jacket draws 75 W and the gloves 30 W. That means at the OPTIMAL operating rpm, the bike's battery has to PROVIDE 5 W just to power my minimal heating gear, thereby discharging the battery while the bike is running. And if its running at a less efficient rpm, the bike will kill the bike's battery that much faster.

Last edited by saddlebag; 01-03-2015 at 07:51 PM.
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post #43 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 06:35 PM
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From the chart given, the Gerbing jacket draws 75 amps and the gloves 30 amps.
I HOPE you mean watts not AMPS! That shorts out and you'd be fried!

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #44 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 07:05 PM
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15.3 amps at 1100 rpm. That's that the alternator on the Versys 1000 puts out.
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post #45 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 07:08 PM
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15.3 amps at 1100 rpm. That's that the alternator on the Versys 1000 puts out.
Any idea what it puts out at 5000 rpm?

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #46 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 07:20 PM
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The weather was barely warm enough for a nice ride to day in Oregon so I headed over to Power motorsports in Sublimity. It was a little nippy but I dressed for the ride.

There she was, a new 15 FJ 09. I have to say it is one hell of a nice looking bike. Yeah I do think they were thinking of the popularity of the Versys when they went to the drawing board on this one. I like the bigger engine, an 850 would be perfect for the Versys , the 1000 is a little big in my opinion. I would recommend you all watch that short video preview of the new FJ 09 above, really a nice preview. It seems it has everything we always wanted on our pre-15 Versys. The center stand, outlets, bigger engine, more power, easy on and off bags, hand guards, etc. Not a bad bike but it is still $3000 more than I paid for my 14 and I am still happy with my Versys.
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post #47 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 07:20 PM
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Any idea what it puts out at 5000 rpm?
No. I got the output at 1100rpm from a Kawasaki document. They don't mention any other output figures.
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post #48 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Time View Post
I HOPE you mean watts not AMPS! That shorts out and you'd be fried!
Oops, yes correct. Thanks.
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post #49 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 07:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Spackler View Post
No. I got the output at 1100rpm from a Kawasaki document. They don't mention any other output figures.
Yes, the figure you quoted is what keeps getting repeated by all the reviews and it's meaningless. When idling, all bikes are going to suck power from the battery. But when operating, the engine should be spinning fast enough to supply the alternator enough energy to power our goodies AND charge the battery.
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post #50 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 07:45 PM
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they ran a long term test of the FZ-09 in Motorcyclist magazine...They dumped big bucks into the front suspension and the ECU trying to get that thing to ride and run right...a better comparison to our Versys 650 is the FZ-07..a bike I drool over...

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/ho...z-09-doin-time

the above is the 2nd of three articles detailing the mags efforts...also the 2014 Fz-09's have been recalled due to bad wiring harness' (oh nooooo).....

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/re...-07-first-ride

the above is the sweet news on the fz-07


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post #51 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlebag View Post
Yes, the figure you quoted is what keeps getting repeated by all the reviews and it's meaningless. When idling, all bikes are going to suck power from the battery. But when operating, the engine should be spinning fast enough to supply the alternator enough energy to power our goodies AND charge the battery.
It isn't meaningless. It's the output at what is basically idle. It'll tell you what you can power at idle. All the juice won't help if you run out of it when at a red light.
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post #52 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Spackler View Post
It isn't meaningless. It's the output at what is basically idle. It'll tell you what you can power at idle. All the juice won't help if you run out of it when at a red light.
Most of the time if you can run at speed it'll recharge the battery IF the thing puts out the amps and that will get you through a red light without a problem. The problem is when you're at speed and just barely breaking even on power and then end up in stop and go traffic.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #53 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 08:08 PM
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It isn't meaningless. It's the output at what is basically idle. It'll tell you what you can power at idle. All the juice won't help if you run out of it when at a red light.
Unless your battery is half dead, it has plenty of storage to provide power for your stuff for the short time that you're stopped at a light. 15 amps isn't enough power to supply all the bike's inherent needs let alone plug in goodies. What that figure tells you is that the alternator can produce ~210 W (14V*15A) while it idles. Again, the bike ALONE requires between 220-280 W (depending on whether or not the radiator fan is running) for its own requisite features. Hence, the idling metric given is meaningless, unless you want to know that it's insufficient to provide for its needs while idling. That's not unusual, few if any of them do.

The important figure to know is what the bike is capable of producing at its nominal rpm. Most sport touring bikes I've owned are in the 500+W range. 340 W is positively puny. It's enough to power the bike's requisite features and charge the battery, but little else.
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post #54 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 08:21 PM
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I was at the Kawasaki site and the 650LT is listed at 476.3 lbs! BUT looking a little close that's with all fluids INCLUDING a tank of gas! That's 33 lbs right there. Plus the bags have to add a bit so it's not all that more than a 2nd gen which my manual says is 454 lbs but it doesn't say if that with a full tank or not.

Or was that look THEN leap?
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post #55 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 08:23 PM
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ok..some of the problems have been fixed with the new Fj-08...here's a good review..

http://www.revzilla.com/common-tread...ead_digest_1/3

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post #56 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saddlebag View Post
Unless your battery is half dead, it has plenty of storage to provide power for your stuff for the short time that you're stopped at a light. 15 amps isn't enough power to supply all the bike's inherent needs let alone plug in goodies. What that figure tells you is that the alternator can produce ~210 W (14V*15A) while it idles. Again, the bike ALONE requires between 220-280 W (depending on whether or not the radiator fan is running) for its own requisite features. Hence, the idling metric given is meaningless, unless you want to know that it's insufficient to provide for its needs while idling. That's not unusual, few if any of them do.

The important figure to know is what the bike is capable of producing at its nominal rpm. Most sport touring bikes I've owned are in the 500+W range. 340 W is positively puny. It's enough to power the bike's requisite features and charge the battery, but little else.
Where are you getting 340 W? Kawasaki is touting the V1000 as having an "upgraded alternator".
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post #57 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 08:54 PM
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Where are you getting 340 W? Kawasaki is touting the V1000 as having an "upgraded alternator".
I hope so. Be really nice if they'd make that spec available.

The thread where folks were talking about the 650 capacity was on this site. Now I can't find it, but here is a similar thread:

Versys Alternator Output

There is a Versys 1000 forum. That's where someone stated that the 650 and V1K share the same stator.
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post #58 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 09:24 PM
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With all respect, you guys are looking at numbers on spec sheets and marketing literature. I can tell you for certain that I, and many other members of this Forum, are routinely running, on the V650, all the equipment I mentioned (heated vest, heated gloves, GPS, extra lights, headlight modulator, etc) without any problem. I installed a led digital voltmeter that monitors the voltage level, and it never drops below 13.7 volts while running above 3000RPM. Varies between 13.9 and 14.1 volts; the drop caused by the headlight modulator. And, I'm still running the original OEM battery on my 09V, after over 20,000 miles.

BTW, I'm using a Gerber heated vest and heated gloves.

Several owners have had a problem with the rectifier/regulator after mileage is around/over 40,000 miles. But that's it.

Last edited by ScottyNeal; 01-03-2015 at 09:27 PM.
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post #59 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by ScottyNeal View Post
I installed a led digital voltmeter that monitors the voltage level, and it never drops below 13.7 volts while running above 3000RPM. Varies between 13.9 and 14.1 volts; the drop caused by the headlight modulator. And, I'm still running the original OEM battery on my 09V, after over 20,000 miles.
That's reassuring. Odd that a manufacturer would underspec that feature...and by so much. Usually, when they lie about a spec, it's to make their product look better or more competitive, not worse!
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post #60 of 427 (permalink) Old 01-03-2015, 10:40 PM
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No issues with running GPS+ Jacket Liner + Heated Gloves all on hi setting. Passenger with separate set of heated gear or using tank mounted toaster with heated gear might cause issues though
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