what type of oil?? - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-03-2008, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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Question what type of oil??

just wondering what kind of oil most guys are using??....also wanted to know what type of gas ,,,high test or regular, what is recommended in the manual...thx.
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post #2 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-06-2008, 06:49 AM
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I saw no difference using regular, mid and high grade, so I'm sticking with regular.

Oil, you can go many ways.
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post #3 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-15-2008, 10:26 PM
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after the break in period i switched to a semi.
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post #4 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-22-2008, 10:08 PM
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Oil

After the break in I would use AMSOil 20W-40 for Motorcycles and see if they make an EA filter for the VERSYS yet.

I have run it in my VLX and Harley and it works great. Cools, lubes and protects.


DOUG BRAXTON
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post #5 of 41 (permalink) Old 03-29-2008, 09:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75gator View Post
After the break in I would use AMSOil 20W-40 for Motorcycles and see if they make an EA filter for the VERSYS yet.

I have run it in my VLX and Harley and it works great. Cools, lubes and protects.
You mean 20W50? The Versys runs on 10W40, also available from Amsoil in synthetic. As long as it's motorcycle specific 10W40 with the JASO MA (Japanese Automotive Standards Organization - Motorcycle high friction applications) certification as specified in owner's manual. I'll switch to Amsoil synthetic oil at 2000 kms after a good break-in and oil changes after the first day, and at 1000 kms; Break-in secrets
Amsoil does list an EAOM103-EA, and the taller, larger capacity EAOM103C-EA oil filter for Versys/Ninja 650R/ER-6.

Some have noticed slightly better fuel mileage as well as better low end grunt on 91 octane, and less popping upon engine braking with a slip-on exhaust. A minimum of 87 pump posted octane (MON+RON/2) is recommended, higher if any pinging is perceived.

Last edited by invader; 03-30-2008 at 07:35 AM.
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post #6 of 41 (permalink) Old 04-01-2008, 11:34 AM
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Talking

As far as types oil and break-in procedures are concerned there are as many opinions as fish in the sea. Not wanting to start a flame war let me just say what I have done to my V after owning it a month and just doing the 600 service last weekend. I followed the factory recomendation for break-in for the most part. Its really hard to absolutly stay under 4k and be safe in traffic. The reason I follow the factory's instructions is that I don't think they just pull these things out of the air. I think they have a lot of experience making and testing engines and spend millions on R&D to find how best to break them in. That is my opinion after reading much over the years about the subject.
As far as oil I went and bought the Kawasaki filter and a gallon of Kawa 10-40 oil. The filter was about $11.75 and the gallon of oil was $16.00.
Even though the factory filter is more expensive than going to Wal-Mart and finding a Fram that will work for much cheaper again I think what the factory reccomends is cheap insurance.
As for synthetic oil, I won't put it in my motor until at least 12000 miles. I think synth is just too slippery to let the rings seal properly if used too soon.
Again, this is my own opinion only.
I'll use different brand oils I'm sure over the time I own the bike. I don't think the brand is as important as using the right spec oil and changing it regularly.
Also after reading about some folks finding metal in the first change of oil I used a white, clean drain pan and drained the original oil into it and let it sit overnight. In the morning I slowly poured off about 3/4 of the oil and then looked for all the "metal". Hmmmm, no "shavings" or other large pieces of metal to be seen. I then took a magnet and swept through the oil and the bottom of the drain pan. The magnet did collect some very, very, very small
metal bits but they were almost too small to see.
Lastly I'm amazed at how little service these bikes need. I've had a number of BMW's over the years and the last one was a 2002 GS Adventure and for the 12,000 mile service you had to buy 4 quarts of oil (BMW synth was about 9 bucks a quart, maybe more now), a 15 dollar oil filter and 2 quarts of synth gear lube for the trans and final drive at about 13 bucks a quart. Over $70.00 total!! Yikes! I loved my Beemers but they really are maintenance Queens.
Oh, one more thing. Checked the mileage exactly on my last fill-up and it was 52.3 MPG. I think this will get worse as I explore the upper limits of the rev range in the future!
OK I'm done now, flame away!

Last edited by Versysbob; 04-01-2008 at 11:46 AM.
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post #7 of 41 (permalink) Old 11-17-2008, 07:45 PM
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I'm running Amsoil 20-50 year round. It flows so well at low temp, it just doesn't matter and mine shifts a little better with the extra cushioning. I am not am Amsoil dealer. That oil just kicks butt. Go out to their site and pull the test .pdf on their motorcycle oil. Testing aside, these little engines run smoother and shift better. You can just tell the oil is getting the job done. End of commercial.
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post #8 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 04:05 AM
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Opening an old oil can of worms

But just like to share my experience using Diesel oil for the V. Not just a normal Diesel oil but one with JASO MA, API CI-4 Plus. Can a HDEO be compatible to motorcycles? Petro Canada Duron XL 15W40 semi synt does, according to their data sheet. (<$10/L)

http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/re...99&language=en

Had the oil recently changed. Old oil was Rock Oil Guardian 10W40 Semi synt ($14 a liter). My first impression were:

1. 1st gear engagement is not as harsh but the klonk is still there.
2. No foam or bubbles formed right after I shut off the engine after a ride, not even 1 lonely bubble. I've noticed bubbles/foam forming on the surface of the oil on Motul 5100, Rock Oil, mystery factory oil and United Oil.
3. Best part of the oil, improved power/torque feeling at the same RPM level. Confirmed as I was in 5th gear rather than 4th gear (when with the older oil) on a familiar slightly ascending twisties road. Acceleration is indeed better especially in the short quick burst while passing cars in very tight twisties road condition. I don't feel that it was running out of breath as I accelerate.
4. Noticeable smoothness and quieter engine (a lot quieter). Me thinks the handlebars are vibrating lesser too.
5. Gear shiftings are smoother and definite.
6. Oil gets dark really quick but still transparent, under 50km. Heavy detergency, I guess.

Rock oil was in the engine for 4k km. Observations based on memory when I first put in the Rock Oil, which didn't gave any advantage over the mystery factory oil, and in fact, I found the engine to be louder than the factory oil.

Let's see how long this oil can last, given that is meant for Extra drain intervals and has high TBN acid neutralizing capabilities.

Present Ride: 2011 Versys Spark Black
Previous Ride: Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2008 Plasma Blue
My V's Farkle Log: http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...214#post146214
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post #9 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 05:27 AM
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I am a 30+ year mechanic. I own a garage.

I have said to customers:

Your engine blew because it ran out of oil

Your engine blew because the oil was not changed.

I HAVE NEVER said your engine blew because it had the wrong brand of oil.

I think the factory interval of 7500 miles is too much. I change mine at 2,000 miles. You do as you wish. I find it to be cheap insurance. I do use store brand 10W40.

My BMW R1100RT has 130,000 miles using Napa 10W40 for the first 100,000 then 20W50 since changed every 3,000 miles. It holds 4 quarts with filter.
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post #10 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 05:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2daMax View Post
Opening an old oil can of worms

But just like to share my experience using Diesel oil for the V. Not just a normal Diesel oil but one with JASO MA, API CI-4 Plus. Can a HDEO be compatible to motorcycles? Petro Canada Duron XL 15W40 semi synt does, according to their data sheet. (<$10/L)

http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/re...99&language=en

Let's see how long this oil can last, given that is meant for Extra drain intervals and has high TBN acid neutralizing capabilities.
Petro Can's Duron XL 15W-40 semi-synth specs look really good , even compared to Shell's T6 synthetic 5W-40. (Semi-synth T5 is not JASO MA). Many use synthetic T6 or standard Rotella T 15W-40 with great results as well.

http://www-static.shell.com/static/c...cants/1-52.pdf
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post #11 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 05:55 AM
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"I think the factory interval of 7500 miles is too much. I change mine at 2,000 miles."

Yep....its a pretty small engine. Im running AMSOil. I try for 2000 but I never go over 3000 but take your pick on brands there are many, many good brands.

Last edited by douglasgraham; 09-19-2011 at 06:57 AM.
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post #12 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 05:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David RSparky3 View Post
I am a 30+ year mechanic. I own a garage.

I have said to customers:

Your engine blew because it ran out of oil

Your engine blew because the oil was not changed.

I HAVE NEVER said your engine blew because it had the wrong brand of oil.

I think the factory interval of 7500 miles is too much. I change mine at 2,000 miles. You do as you wish. I find it to be cheap insurance. I do use store brand 10W40.

My BMW R1100RT has 130,000 miles using Napa 10W40 for the first 100,000 then 20W50 since changed every 3,000 miles. It holds 4 quarts with filter.
Absolutely. I also change my Amsoil synthetic JASO MA oil at every 2000-3000 miles or so. It's only 2 liters taking care of engine, tranny and clutch... The BMW R1100RT does have a seperate dry clutch.
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post #13 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 06:02 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2daMax View Post
Opening an old oil can of worms

But just like to share my experience using Diesel oil for the V. Not just a normal Diesel oil but one with JASO MA, API CI-4 Plus. Can a HDEO be compatible to motorcycles? Petro Canada Duron XL 15W40 semi synt does, according to their data sheet. (<$10/L)

http://lubricants.petro-canada.ca/re...99&language=en

Had the oil recently changed. Old oil was Rock Oil Guardian 10W40 Semi synt ($14 a liter). My first impression were:

1. 1st gear engagement is not as harsh but the klonk is still there.
2. No foam or bubbles formed right after I shut off the engine after a ride, not even 1 lonely bubble. I've noticed bubbles/foam forming on the surface of the oil on Motul 5100, Rock Oil, mystery factory oil and United Oil.
3. Best part of the oil, improved power/torque feeling at the same RPM level. Confirmed as I was in 5th gear rather than 4th gear (when with the older oil) on a familiar slightly ascending twisties road. Acceleration is indeed better especially in the short quick burst while passing cars in very tight twisties road condition. I don't feel that it was running out of breath as I accelerate.
4. Noticeable smoothness and quieter engine (a lot quieter). Me thinks the handlebars are vibrating lesser too.
5. Gear shiftings are smoother and definite.
6. Oil gets dark really quick but still transparent, under 50km. Heavy detergency, I guess.

Rock oil was in the engine for 4k km. Observations based on memory when I first put in the Rock Oil, which didn't gave any advantage over the mystery factory oil, and in fact, I found the engine to be louder than the factory oil.

Let's see how long this oil can last, given that is meant for Extra drain intervals and has high TBN acid neutralizing capabilities.
Nice find Max, and guess your local bike shop recommended this to you. Need further details on availability and local price.

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post #14 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 08:26 AM
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Hi Fasto, I got it from a fellow biker (Sarjan Tulang) in the Klang valley, mail ordered it.

http://malaysianbikers.com.my/forum/...c,79779.0.html

Nope, bike shops won't tell me these goodies, only fellow users and bikers would.

Present Ride: 2011 Versys Spark Black
Previous Ride: Kawasaki Ninja 250R 2008 Plasma Blue
My V's Farkle Log: http://www.kawasakiversys.com/forums...214#post146214
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post #15 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 08:33 AM
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I switched from Kawasaki 10w-40 oil to Shell T-6 full synthetic last year. I waited until I had 9,000 miles on the bike. It seems to have increased my average fuel mileage by about 2 mpg. I had hoped it would smooth out the tranny shifting, but it did not. (But my paying better attention to my shifting has). I also noticed (as noted by another forum post) the oil in the sight glass turned dark, but clear, fairly early in the run. I always change the oil before I put it away for the winter, to reduce acid etching of the internal engine parts.
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post #16 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 08:55 AM
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post #17 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 12:54 PM
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Anyone using Mobil 1 syn.racing oil? I used the longer Wix filter that I found referenced here. Bike has 2700 miles.
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post #18 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 02:12 PM
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I use Rotella T6 full synthetic, currently 5W-40.
The longest I use a batch is 4,000 miles, at which point the shifting gets more clunky than otherwise.

There is no benefit to using higher octane gas than specified in the manual. Well, other than lightening you wallet more quickly, if that is a benefit to you.
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post #19 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 07:35 PM
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I've been using Castrol Synthetic 5w-40 now for a few years. This primarily because it is easy to find on sale locally and also because I use it in my VW turbo diesel which has extremely specific oil requirements.

Basically any oil that does not have the "Energy Conserving" stamp that indicates the addition of friction modifiers, should be safe for the Versys wet clutch. The addition of friction modifiers, which can be found in some oils, negatively impact the oil immersed "wet" clutch.
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post #20 of 41 (permalink) Old 09-19-2011, 08:20 PM
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I currently use Rotella T 15W40 "dino" oil. At this point, I don't really see any advantage to use the synthetic, although I'll have to check out the price of the Petro-Canada stuff.

It looks like the Duron-E 10W40 synth and Duron-E XL 15W40 semi-synth are both suitable (JASO MA, API SM)...any real advantage of one over the other?

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