40 grade oils aren't resourse conserving, so it might not cause clutch problems. You could have better idea of that if you could find a product data sheet and see how much moly is listed. Based on how other automotive 5W40's do in shared sump motorcycles, I would expect it to shear well out of grade maybe in just a couple thousand miles. I wouldn't put it my bike. Use it for the next oil change in your car, or give it to someone who can.
Automotive oil works fine providing it doesn't have any "friction modifiers" added. Check the certs on the back to find out. Friction modifiers will really mess up a wet clutch like most metric bikes have.
Just to throw a bit of a wrench in the works..........most Rotella is formulated for diesel engines. No problem, I used it in a lot of bikes and other things.
Are you talking about the original euro car formula oil (sorry, a couple other oils have been mentioned)?
Also Twowheels, I say your post in the insurance thread, where in Canada are you with that rate, and what company? I have to renew in July, paid 1k last yr with aviva.
I just don't think there is that much benefit to synthetic............and every bike I've had it in has been noisier with synthetic. Just my opinion here................
I was just curious. I'm kinda with the group that says it doesn't matter which oil you use, as long as you change it when it needs it. Edit....as long as it's JASO certified and okay for wet clutches.
At those prices I'd be all over using either dino or synthetic Shell Rotella, assuming the the Canuckian versions are also JASO rated on the back of the bottle.
Depends on the type. For the T6 synthetic, you have to check because there are two versions in identical bottles. The 5W-40 is JASO-MA rated, the 0W-40 is not.
But yeah, the price on just about everything up here is nuts.
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