, Is this the thread you were talking about?
how to adjust throttle cables
I hadn't found it in my previous searches. It describes exactly my issue, although no new/helpful information about remedying the problem... :-(
I'm not entirely clear what you are referring to by a "clamp at the throttle cam". Again, the 2011 might be different than the 2007 in this regard.
Perhaps it's time to consult with my mechanic...
As to that post, see post 14 by STlee 29 , you see the two aluminum tubes passing through a upper and lower black steel band, those tubes the cable passes through , just sit in those black sockets, either top or bottom aluminum part/ tube, should be able to move towards the front of the bike by 0.010 to 0.020 of a inch. Also the explanation of slack in the upper cable is slightly wrong, as that is the push cable, it is the bottom that should have a slight curve to it.
There is adjustments on both push and pull, the pull is at the handlebar . I just tried to simulate the problem, if I keep turning out my adjustment by even half a turn at the handlebars, my throttle will remain in any position I leave it, that is it will not
return. There are further adjustments to compensate for when you run out of adjustment at the handlebars, between the throttle cam and handlebars, it consists of a long coupling nut ( the identical one is shown in that thread, post by IAMRA shows the clutch cable adjuster )with two locking nuts and typically a rubber covering over it, this is covered in the manual. When you look at the throttle cam, if you grab your throttle, in full locked position, a slight ( 0.010 to 0.020 rotation at the throttle) should show the lower cable going from a slight curve and tightening and the upper push cable should do the opposite on release. If both cables are straight all the time and the only thing that happens is the cam rotates, then your adjustment is too tight