Cap'n Kirks Givi V46NT LED Brake Light Install - Page 3 - Kawasaki Versys Forum
Modifications - Cosmetic Discuss aftermarket and Do-It-Yourself cosmetic modifications

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post #41 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-14-2012, 12:12 AM
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Oh, I just posted mine a little while ago! Should be in this same forum section. Filbert's LED brake/signal light install on HT panniers

Bikes: 2008 Kawasaki Versys, 2009 Kawasaki Ninja 650R - RIP 1999 Suzuki Katana
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post #42 of 55 (permalink) Old 05-14-2012, 09:36 AM
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Nicely done!
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post #43 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 01:51 PM
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Finally got around to getting some pics of my LED light install. Thanks Cap'n for blazing the trail...

I had some LED strips that I ordered from superbrightleds.com and never used. I don't know how thrilled I am about them, but they work. I think they are barely visible in daylight. Especially when riding into the sun, I can't imagine the car behind me would be able to see much in the way of turn signals or running lights with the glare. They're great at night though, and that's what I was really hoping for.

Running lights


Brake lights


Turn signals/running lights


I also used a small rubber grommet with some silicon glue for the wires entering the case. Not the best photo...


I really like having these extra lights. Knowing that I'm a little more visible to the cars behind me is comforting. I still don't trust them though...

2011 Imperial Red
Givi V46 / V35's SW Motech mounts
Skidmarx hugger Moto Werks bar riser
Mondo Motors LED Driving Lights
A little bit of road rash
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post #44 of 55 (permalink) Old 06-10-2012, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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Finally got around to getting some pics of my LED light install. Thanks Cap'n for blazing the trail...
Lookin good!
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post #45 of 55 (permalink) Old 11-23-2012, 09:44 PM
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I also wired my V46

First, a big thanks to Cap'n Kirk for his original write-up on this process.

My build, for the most part, is the same but with a few differences. I used Superbright LEDs, an audio barrel connector for the quick disconnect, a single 330ohm resistor, and a different relay with similar specs. I also cut and soldered the amber strips the same way as Cap'n Kirk, to make the strip bend around the case, but I lined the leds up with the red ones below. The leds were also moved closer the the center as well. I think it looks a little better and neater that way. The third strip of center brake/running leds was not used.

I am a bit worried about the disconnect not being weatherproof, but in hot/dry Arizona it should be okay. We'll see next year during monsoon season. I did put silicone on the outside and in the hole drilled in the case as well as dielectric grease on the inside to keep moisture out and make it easier to remove.

I left the connections inside the case document compartment with wirenuts so I can make easy changes if need be. All other connections were soldered. The spade connectors you see used on the turn signal were temporary to test the circuits.

Components:
The LEDs are WFLS-R60-BK and WFLS-A30-BK red and amber strips from Superbright.
330ohm resistor, R40-11D2-12 relay, and microphone/audio 4-pin barrel connectors, and 4 conductor cable came from Fry's.
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post #46 of 55 (permalink) Old 11-24-2012, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobgong View Post
First, a big thanks to Cap'n Kirk for his original write-up on this process.

My build, for the most part, is the same but with a few differences....
Looks like a solid and well done install. Thanks for posting!
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post #47 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-24-2014, 10:28 PM
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Help!

Last night both my regular tail light and Givi LED lights were completely out (no running lights or brake lights). I found a loose connection at my resistor and replaced it. Still not working properly. The relay was working kind of sporadically and then I ended up blowing the tail light fuse as I was wiggling wires around to find the culprit. I replaced the fuse and I tried to replace the relay. I wired everything up to the new relay (identical to the previous one) as it was before it went out last night but still couldn't get it to switch when applying either the front or rear brake (it is possible that I had the ground and positive switched on the relay, I'll cop to that). I checked every single connection multiple times. In the end I accidentally figured out that if I bypass the relay and connect all three wires that go to pins 1-2 (running light), 3-4 (brake light) and 5-6, the running light and brake light work as desired on both the tail light and the Givi LED light.

Any reason not to keep it this way? Does the relay provide some additional protection I'm ignorant about? Any ideas on the why the relay wouldn't switch?

It's been trouble free for more than 2 years...

Thanks for the help!

2011 Imperial Red
Givi V46 / V35's SW Motech mounts
Skidmarx hugger Moto Werks bar riser
Mondo Motors LED Driving Lights
A little bit of road rash
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post #48 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 05:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BaileyMan View Post
Last night both my regular tail light and Givi LED lights were completely out (no running lights or brake lights). I found a loose connection at my resistor and replaced it. Still not working properly. The relay was working kind of sporadically and then I ended up blowing the tail light fuse as I was wiggling wires around to find the culprit. I replaced the fuse and I tried to replace the relay. I wired everything up to the new relay (identical to the previous one) as it was before it went out last night but still couldn't get it to switch when applying either the front or rear brake (it is possible that I had the ground and positive switched on the relay, I'll cop to that). I checked every single connection multiple times. In the end I accidentally figured out that if I bypass the relay and connect all three wires that go to pins 1-2 (running light), 3-4 (brake light) and 5-6, the running light and brake light work as desired on both the tail light and the Givi LED light.

Any reason not to keep it this way? Does the relay provide some additional protection I'm ignorant about? Any ideas on the why the relay wouldn't switch?

It's been trouble free for more than 2 years...

Thanks for the help!
I just looked at my schematic again for the first time since I did this modification. The relay does not provide any "protection" as a fuse would. In theory, if you hook up your "brake" 12V+ (non-resistor) on the case side of the current limiting resistors, is should work without the relay. I tried this at first and it did not work for me, (maybe its the Backoff XP) hence the relay I put in place.

Without closely examining your entire hookup with a meter, I would be hard pressed to give you any advice on what to do. If you have it working and you are not blowing any fuses, you seem to be good to go.

Glad you got it patched up and running again!!
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post #49 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-25-2014, 09:55 AM
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Thanks Cap!

I'll keep it as is unless I start blowing fuses. It's not pretty under there, but it works...

2011 Imperial Red
Givi V46 / V35's SW Motech mounts
Skidmarx hugger Moto Werks bar riser
Mondo Motors LED Driving Lights
A little bit of road rash
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post #50 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-16-2015, 09:47 PM
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Hey Cap'n Kirk-

I really want to try your brake light installation but I had a question - what type of cable did you get to go into your cord grip? Is it speaker wire?

Thanks for any info!
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post #51 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-17-2015, 02:13 AM
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Just re reading some of this post, I got these connectors off ebay might help somebody?

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-Kits-2-...item3cf88ebac3 , this is aussie ebay maybe just search ebay for "2 Pin Way Car Motorcycles Waterproof Electrical Connector" or this one is a US seller for 3 pin connectors
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10-Kit-3-...item1e9e156bfb
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post #52 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-17-2015, 05:05 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by OrganDonor View Post
Hey Cap'n Kirk-

I really want to try your brake light installation but I had a question - what type of cable did you get to go into your cord grip? Is it speaker wire?

Thanks for any info!
I used CAT5E cable. CAT5E is Ethernet cable same as the patch cord that goes from a modem to a router. Make sure if you use this kind of cable, that you use stranded wire and not solid. Stranded will be forgiving over time with flex and vibe. Solid wire is meant for permanent installations and if flexed over time will break. The LED's draw very little current and the CAT5E cable is plenty big enough for the job.
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post #53 of 55 (permalink) Old 08-21-2015, 01:41 AM
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Haha that's awesome. I never would have thought to use an ethernet cable. Thanks for the advice! I'm currently gathering necessary supplies to try and install this brake light but I'll upload pics later once I finish!
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post #54 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-19-2016, 11:50 PM
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Thumbs up GIVI Monokey V46 Lights On 2015 Kawasaki Versys 1000 LT

GIVI Monokey V46 Lights On 2015 Kawasaki Versys 1000 LT

GIF of finished lights

Thanks to Cap'n Kirk for doing the hard part! I pretty much followed his instructions and everything turned out great!

My shopping list:
Waterproof Connector
LED Strips
Cable Gland
BackOff!
Relay - relay is out of stock but any 12V automotive relay should do; they are pretty standard.
Zip ties, shrink tubing, electrical tape, soldering, etc...

A couple of things to note:

The LED strips I ordered turned out to be different than the ones Kap'n Kirk used. Mine had fewer LEDs overall but as a result they are super bright. Just remember to divide up your LEDs to your liking based on your unique situation. I had some extra left over which is why I decided to put another small strip in for the center light (behind the 4 translucent circular lenses)

As stated before, only cut the LEDs on the marked sections. Despite this knowledge, I thought that cutting one short would be ok (and discarding the cut end), however cutting anywhere else will break that whole segment you're cutting (both sides of the cut). Lesson learned the hard way!

To expose the connectors for the cut LEDs, I found a razor blade and a flathead screwdriver to be most useful. Patience is key to prevent damaging the connector pads! After soldering on the wires, I covered using more shrink tubing.

Be sure to remember to remove the reflective strips in the lenses! Otherwise your LEDs won't shine through..

I forgot to get a picture of the 330 Ohm resistor I used. Just remember to use a lot of electrical tape on it to deter bending. I tried to keep the actual resistor itself exposed in case it got hot.


Thanks Kap'n Kirk! Overall this was a fun project to work on and I'm happy with the results. Now I light up like a Christmas tree!

For further visibility, I recommend these:
Visibility Safety Vest
Reflective Rim Tape
Front fog lamps (I used the OEM lights offered by Kawasaki for my specific bike)
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post #55 of 55 (permalink) Old 01-24-2016, 05:45 PM
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Very good write up gentlemen. Thanks for taking the time to document your builds.
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