Not being a narc but you didn't answer twowheeladdict question about checking the voltage with the engine running. The engine must be started or at least attempt to be started to get power to the light socket.
Did you check the headlight fuse? Much more likely to be blown than the relay.
Well I too don't want to be a narc, so if you understood how it worked like I do, you would have found that you DON'T
need the key on to test the relay , for sound
it will pull in using the stator plug black wires, and only 1
wire goes to the relay.
Second test again doesn"t require the motor running,also the wire we are using from the positive terminal is exactly the same as if your stator was outputing 12 VDC,( so if this method brought your headlight on but when connected to the stator and running , it doesn't, would point towards a bad stator) turn on[B] key switch only[/B why? because the stator plug is disconnected, you have no
DC output, so starting the bike, makes the fuel pump and injectors and ignition run off the battery
As to the stator and testing, I already posted a fool proof and accurate method, yes the stator and headlight relay are linked, he has had a stator failure months ago.
Another quick way of testing and you can try this just to prove I know what I am talking about. Go out to your bike, turn on the ignition switch, jog the starter, without starting the bike 1 or 2 second pulse, out of 5 tries 3 will bring on the headlight on release of the start button---a flaw in the design of the headlight relay circuit. First time the light comes on, jog again, it will go off and may not come on, until the next try.
Bottom line, I don't like ripping things apart for no reason, unless you are bored , this method of using the stator plug that is easily accessible, requires just 5 minutes, and you are back riding.