Thanks, wizard. I'll try this when I get home.
Both bulbs look fine upon inspection. The headlight fuse is fine. I'm pretty sure the problem is the relay. Diagnosing that is half the battle, because I'll want to know why the relay went bad.
I installed Clearwater Glenda LED conspicuity lights a couple of years ago. They get their power by tapping into the headlight wires with Positaps. Sometimes, on rough or wavy pavement, the LED lights used to flicker. I suspect that there was a not-so-solid connection that flickered on and off, wreaking havoc on the relay.
When the headlights (low beam and high beam) stopped working, so did the Clearwater Glendas. I interpret that as evidence that the problem isn't the socket, because the Glendas are tapped into the headlight wire right before the low-beam socket.
But I'll also check the voltage coming from the regulator/rectifier.
You have pretty well proven it is the relay, as to checking voltage, that isn't what I am asking to do, the relay is triggered by two things, the coil of the relay uses the starter solenoid coil circuit AND ground.Also the output of ONE stator wire is the main trigger, so by using your battery, that is equal to your stator running.
, so when starting the bike if stalled, the headlight relay drops out because the coil ground is positive while starting.
One thing I would check is the frame grounds, also there is a multitap shown joining all the grounds , that is hard to follow but there is a wiring breakdown, after the electrical drawings.
IMHO, if the relay was chattering under load, it would last about 1 to 2 months.I would be looking for a loose connection, one thing for sure, my first test, you should here a definite clicking, if you do, and no headlight, that would indicate the contact is blown away--AKA need a relay.Unfortunately that relay assembly is just that a assembly.