Replacement of Front Sprocket Pictures-How to: - Kawasaki Versys Forum
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post #1 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-09-2008, 05:30 PM Thread Starter
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Replacement of Front Sprocket Pictures-How to:

I spent part of the day replacing my stock 15t front sprocket with an aftermarket 16t sprocket. Here's some instructions that might help others thinking about it.

1. Remove Front Sprocket Cover- 2 ea 8MM bolts.

2. Remove Speedometer sensor modual - 2 ea 10mm bolts

3. Elevate rear wheel.

4. Loosen rear axle and adjusting nuts to allow slack in chain for removal of front sprocket.

5. Open "cup washer" flange to allow for Sprocket Nut removal. Notice cup washer is facing out and replace the same way.

6. Remove 27mm Front Sprocket nut. I used a 3/4" impact wrench and it came off easily. Direction is counterclockwise for removal.

7. Allow slack in chain and remove chain from front sprocket. It is not necessary to remove the chain from the rear sprocket.

8. Gently work Front Sprocket off spline. Now is a good time to make sure the new front sprocket has lubrication on it.

9. Put new 16t. Sprocket on, replace cup washer, replace Sprocket Nut and torque to 92 ft.lbs as per manual and place chain around new front sprocket.

10. Replace Speedometer sensor with the 2- 10mm bolts and tighten, but not too much as you will strip the aluminum housing they bold into.

11. Replace Front Sprocket cover. 2- 8mm bolts

12. Tighten chain allowing for slack as per manual. Usually about 1 1/4" slack at midpoint in chain using adjusting nuts on both sides equally. Tighten adjusting nuts when finished.

13. Tighten axle nut to 80 ft.lbs torque as per manual and replace cotter key.

14. Lower bike and check again for proper slack in chain.

14. While you are at it, this is a good time to check tire pressure and lubricate your chain.


I hope someone finds this useful.

'09 Versys -Green

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Last edited by dallasdon; 04-10-2012 at 06:15 PM.
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post #2 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-09-2008, 05:51 PM
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Nice write up and excellent pictures, did mine a few months ago, but not smart enough to think about taking pics!!

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post #3 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-09-2008, 06:02 PM Thread Starter
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Nice write up and excellent pictures, did mine a few months ago, but not smart enough to think about taking pics!!

Machog
Well to tell the truth, I got about halfway through and then thought I'd better take some pictures so I reassembled it and started over. Maybe it will help some others out there. I also forgot to say that it dropped my miles per hour about 5 and it runs much closer to the actual speed limit now.

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post #4 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-09-2008, 06:46 PM
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16 tooth sprocket modification.

Great thread, thanks for the photo's I will now change mine.

Peter.
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post #5 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-09-2008, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Great thread, thanks for the photo's I will now change mine.

Peter.

Glad I could help.

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post #6 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-09-2008, 07:02 PM
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Awesome! This should be a sticky.

2007 Versys Black, V35 Bags, H&B Bars, Skidmarx Hugger.Fender Ex., Avon Distanzia, Braided Lines, Hella 65W bulbs Arrow Can, DNA Air filter, GIVI tall screen (for winter), PCIII, Baldwin Saddle. **SOLD**

2011 KTM SM-T. Crash bars, E55 Top Box, Fender extender front and rear.
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post #7 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-09-2008, 09:31 PM
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WOW! great thread I would never have tried this before but you made it look easy. Great job and great pictures. THANKS
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post #8 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-10-2008, 05:55 AM Thread Starter
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WOW! great thread I would never have tried this before but you made it look easy. Great job and great pictures. THANKS
I'm really glad this might help you. I've done so many mods on the bike I wish I would have document all of them but what's done is done. Take care and I hope you have a great day.

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post #9 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-10-2008, 09:20 AM
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Thanks dallasdon - couple of questions........
Did you locktite the front sprocket nut?
What do you think about rideability now; low end acceleration, high end speed and smoothness?
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post #10 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-10-2008, 04:03 PM
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thank's Don........i have a non oem sprocket also....never got around to change it....someone on here said the non oem sprocket would whine and vibrate,glad to here no trouble with yours.....interested to here if u have any problems.....thanks again
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post #11 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-10-2008, 06:38 PM
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Thanks a lot, Just ordered the 16t yesterday, I will definitely refer to your post when I install it
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post #12 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-11-2008, 01:04 PM
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God dang Don! I am so envious of your wrenching skills. VERY nice job of documenting the process.

I too am interested in the change in performance.

Cheers. Les
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post #13 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-11-2008, 05:52 PM
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QUOTE]Did you locktite the front sprocket nut?[/QUOTE]

Do not use Locktite on the front sprocket, you loob it with Moly-the exact opposite. It has a lock washer, so there is no fear of it ever coming off.

If you use locktite you'll never get the front sprocket off again-and in 20k miles or more, you'll need to to replace the chain and both sprockets.

Here's the page from the service manual, the numbers at the end or Ft.lbs torque values, except for SSB with is in.lbs;

Engine Sprocket Nut 125 12.7 92 MO
Rear Axle Nut 108 11.0 80
Rear Sprocket Nuts 59 6.0 44
Speed Sensor Bolt 7.8 0.80 69 in∑lb L

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads.
Lh: Left-hand Threads
MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution.
(mixture of the engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a weight ratio 10 : 1)

Ride at freeway speeds is smoother with 16tooth. Your speedo will be almost dead accurate (compared with 8-9% optimistic with 15tooth stock). Your odometer will read about 6% less, so it will seem that your mpg is worse, when in fact it is slightly better. Got all that, simple isn't it.

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post #14 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-12-2008, 10:27 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machog View Post
QUOTE]Did you locktite the front sprocket nut?
Do not use Locktite on the front sprocket, you loob it with Moly-the exact opposite. It has a lock washer, so there is no fear of it ever coming off.

If you use locktite you'll never get the front sprocket off again-and in 20k miles or more, you'll need to to replace the chain and both sprockets.

Here's the page from the service manual, the numbers at the end or Ft.lbs torque values, except for SSB with is in.lbs;

Engine Sprocket Nut 125 12.7 92 MO
Rear Axle Nut 108 11.0 80
Rear Sprocket Nuts 59 6.0 44
Speed Sensor Bolt 7.8 0.80 69 in∑lb L

L: Apply a non-permanent locking agent to the threads.
Lh: Left-hand Threads
MO: Apply molybdenum disulfide oil solution.
(mixture of the engine oil and molybdenum disulfide grease in a weight ratio 10 : 1)

Ride at freeway speeds is smoother with 16tooth. Your speedo will be almost dead accurate (compared with 8-9% optimistic with 15tooth stock). Your odometer will read about 6% less, so it will seem that your mpg is worse, when in fact it is slightly better. Got all that, simple isn't it.

Machog[/QUOTE]

I just got back from a 600 mile round trip down to the Austin area and the hill country with the 16T front sprocket and I must say I am pleased. It actually seemed to run smoother with the larger front sprocket. I found myself running in 5th gear and not realizing it. Shifting into 6th is really like an overdrive.

I think Machog has said it pretty well with his synopsis of the outcome of putting the 16t sprocket on. I really like it and again, I cannot tell any difference in the noise or vibration level at all. I think that is something someone decide to say because they had a very,very,very acute sense of hearing and vibration. Machog hit it on the head in his thread.

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post #15 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-12-2008, 11:16 AM
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I can tell you first hand, my 16t sprocket is so loud at speed, other riders can hear it. It is a very loud gear whine. I've been meaning to replace it with the factory 16t for the ninja, it comes rubber dampened just like our stocker, I just haven't got to it yet...
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post #16 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-12-2008, 01:35 PM Thread Starter
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I can tell you first hand, my 16t sprocket is so loud at speed, other riders can hear it. It is a very loud gear whine. I've been meaning to replace it with the factory 16t for the ninja, it comes rubber dampened just like our stocker, I just haven't got to it yet...
Maybe I'm just too deaf to hear it (which is a possibility!) or I'm just not paying attention. Maybe some others that have changed can add some insight (or earshot) to this. I'd like to hear from some others.

Certainly nothing can be harmed by putting on the rubber insulated one and I might do that in the future. It's about twice the cost from what I understand, but still at around $32-$34. it's not that much. I think I paid $15.95 for the uninsulated one.

Thanks for that update.

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post #17 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-18-2008, 02:17 PM
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Question

I have a question regarding switching the rear vs. the front sprocket...
What are the advantages/disadvantages of either one? Which is an easier switch? And as far as I've noticed, most people seem to do one or the other... so which is the "preferable" one to switch out?

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post #18 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-18-2008, 04:48 PM
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what size rear sprocket would you use?
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post #19 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-18-2008, 04:54 PM
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A size 44 rear would do it I believe...
this link shows a fellow V riders rear sprocket swap.
44t Rear Sprocket/520 XW chain

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post #20 of 71 (permalink) Old 10-18-2008, 05:01 PM
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az, I did my front, changed from stock to 16tooth.

Less hassle, less nuts to undo.

If you have impact wrench, 27mm impact socket-and a buddy, front is about 30min job. If you are missing one of those three it can be tough.

It also helps if you can get the bike up on a paddock stand for the front. For the rear paddock stand would be essential.

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